Measuring & Choosing Your Replacement Windows

Getting Started

So, a little homework on your part. You’ll need a notepad, a pen/pencil, and a tape measure. In the window world, windows are measured in United Inches or U.I. This is simply the way window companies know how big the window is. U.I. is determined by measuring the width PLUS the height. This WILL NOT be your measurements but a way to price your window. Actual measurements are made by my staff to the 1/8” of an inch for best fit. 

Let’s begin: gather your pad, pencil, and tape, label what room you are starting in, and measure the first window. Note here if this is a double hung, slider, picture, casement, etc. If possible, open the window and measure from the inside of the frame (the pocket that the window fits in) from side to side (width) and then from top to bottom. On your pad, you may make note of the width and height, add them together, and note the U.I. by adding those inches together. If you have difficulty opening the window (not a rare condition), just measure the actual visible window frame and add 2-3 inches to width and height. Don’t worry, it won’t make that much difference. We’re only trying to get a range from pricing and what type of window you wish to replace your old ones with. A few inches either way will not make hundreds of dollars in difference. Again, this is simply your “ballpark” range estimate. *Note here: Certain windows have a minimum and maximum for both height and width. For example, a double-hung may only be built to a width of 52”. If your opening is say 60”, then you may need to full this opening with (2) double hung windows (2-30” wide windows) OR (1) large 2-lite (sash) slider, which can be built that wide. In this case, you will pay for (2) double hung windows OR (1) large slider. As you progress making your notes around your home, things to note: Are there windows in a stairway? Are any of your windows less than 18” from your floor? (Many zoning/building departments mandate that the lower sash of a window be tempered glass if near the floor for safety reasons. This may be approx 16"-18" from floor to window. Windows in a stairway, next to a door or in a bath/shower must be tempered for example. These will add to the cost of that window. Obviously, other options include adding grids inside the panes of glass for aesthetic reasons OR adding obscure glass AND tempering to a bathroom window for both privacy and safety must also be factored in. This is typically why some small bathroom windows seem more expensive than a large living room window.

At this point you have a good start on what you will be needing to begin the process. Another question I get from customers: They ask about a large front-facing window that’s 120 inches wide. What can we do with that? Here’s a couple ideas. First, that’s ten feet of glass, so, let’s first divide it into pieces. That would either be thirds, each 40” wide OR, many past customers have liked the idea of ¼, ½, ¼, OR 30”, 60”, 30” leaving a larger picture window in the middle flanked by (2) 30” wide operable windows. (You could also make that picture window operatable. You may note there’s a guideline of max-min widths and heights for you to compare possibilities. This opening would demand 3 separate units to be “mulled” together and create a nice wide glass wall into your outdoors. Not ALL windows need to necessarily operate. 

I hope this helps to begin your journey into pricing your own window. For your further information, below are items that WILL change your “ballpark” pricing. 

1) Style- double hungs and sliders are similar in price but sliders can go bigger in general and can get more expensive. Due to mechanisms involved, casements tend to be the most expensive to fill an opening. Because they can generally only be built to 40” wide, in many cases it may take (2) casements to fill the same opening as say a single 50” wide double hung or slider. A single casement is more expensive than a double hung or slider and then you need 2 of those for this opening. So WHY would someone choose a casement? The upside about that pricing is that the casement is the tightest operable window of the group. (We can discuss this at a consultation if you invite me in).

2) Color is next- White is the least expensive. Second, beige/sand (about 10% premium), earthtone/gray (15% premium), and custom colors. Customs may add as much as $200 to $300 per window. This can quickly add to a project IF the owner wants a sand interior and a green exterior OR even the new "Fad" color- BLACK..

3) Grids; (a look that some feel add curb appeal to a home). I have been asked about these and their value. First, it’s a personal choice. If you feel like it’s a nice appearance, then do it. You may also decide to only do the front of the home or only those elevations that face the street for "Curb Appeal". There’s no law saying you must do every window the same way. You may even get creative and only grid the top sash…  Grids come in a variety of configurations, even diamond shapes, though we would have a separate discussion about that one.

4) Glass treatments for safety and for privacy. Tempered glass and obscure glass both add a cost to your project where you might NOT like seeing a neighbor as you get out of the shower or you have the possibility of slipping and breaking glass. 

In this glass treatment section, I will make note regarding what I offer and why? I offer Triple-coat Low-E glass. This glass option is one I offer as standard. Most all companies offer Double-coat Low-E. They offer Triple-Coat as an upgrade. This is the same for the standard  Warm-Edge technology (a 20 year old spacer system) which is the material that separates the 2 panes of glass in your window. I offer the SuperSpacer as standard in my windows to cut down on temperature loss through the spacer system. Others offer this as a premium.

It is my position for my company to offer my customers a product that I’m happy offering to family, friends, and neighbors. A quality product with energy efficiency, attractive looks, options to personalize to your taste, a price that not embarrassing, and a value that adds worth to your home. 

So, how about an example: Recently, I was asked to meet with the owners of a nice ranch style home with 12 double-hung windows. They’d had 3 companies out to see their project. They had been quoted a starting price of $48,000 from a well-known company I know you’ve heard of. After they closed their mouths from the shock, the sale rep quickly mentioned that they were offering 2-for-1. SO, that price came down to $24,000. They said they had to think it over. The other 2 companies came in much less, in the low-mid teens. They called me. The husband asked if I wasn’t crazy. I asked him what he meant and he offered their shopping story. After looking over their home, discussing what I offered and why, I proposed a number under $10,000. They had a couple of tempered glass windows and one obscured. He asked how long it would take to get them in. He then mentioned that the other companies had said a couple days should do it. I then told him that we could have the windows into the warehouse in 3-5 weeks, would call to schedule, and the installation would take a day. They were very happy with the windows and crew, they followed that up with a referral to do their son’s house, and all went smoothly.  Great, happy customer, smooth transaction, and value added without breaking the bank. Win-Win.